OK guys my son and I are starting our prototype for this years car. We find if we build a protoype first we find the problems that we will encounter on the final car and can find solutions. Last year my boy won his age group and place 3rd overall at the Pack level, then 2nd in his age group at Districts. Our goal this year is to win the District overall. We are trying to pull out all the stops and put every trick we can find on this one. Below is what we have planned, any info, or tips on these will be appreciated.
1.Perfect Round Wheels
2.Coning the Hubs
3.Making the wheels as light as possible
4.Rear center of gravity
5.High nose front end
6.Axel polishing (what technique)
7.Pin striping the car to help with lane alignment
8.Axel instalation (technique to ensure straitness)
9.Securing the axel (what technique is best)
10.Paint and laquer (sometimes ours has problems)
There should be an expert or two on each of these subjects, We've learned so much from this site already. Thanks for any help.
YOU CAN'T GO WRONG WITH KRYLON PRIMER. IT DRIES IN 12 MINUTES & IT IS READY FOR A LIGHT SANDING AND A SECOND COAT.FOR COLORS KRYLON IS OK BUT THERE IS A SMALL SELECTION TO CHOOSE FROM.TESTERS MODEL PAINTS OFFER A WIDE CHOICE OF COLORS THAT ARE LIKE ON REAL CARS.I WOULD NOT SUGGEST USING AUTOMOTIVE PAINT LIKE TOUCH UP SPRAYS YOU CAN NOT PUT OTHER PAINTS ON THEM FOR DETAIL. THEY TEND TO CHIP OR SCRAPE OFF.
I HOPE THIS HELPS.http://hometown.aol.com/spedbugy99/
thanks Axelblaster, what about those three ridges on the axel? should we take them off or leave them on? in the past we have left them on and placed them straight down so that was the point of contact with the inner hub. We did this reasoning that it is easier to spin a record on a dowel rod than it is to spin a roll of papertowels. what do you think?
I think the conventional wisdom is that the three crimp marks on the shaft of the nail should be removed. With a small straight file or triangular file, very gingerly file those marks off of the shaft. Otherwise, try to not take any material off of the nail since reducing the diameter of the shaft is considered to be a bad thing. People will argue otherwise, but they seem to be in the minority.
Dec 14, 2003 - 7:41PM
Re: Re: Re: Re: Derby Tricks seek info
I feel Gavin is correct on this. at the same time concave your inside head on the nail. Do not for get to polish once you think you did it well do it again and again. Look through a magnifying glass check out your work.
SPRAY IS BEST,IT IS ALREADY MIXED.WITH THE BOTTLE STUFF YOU HAVE TO USE A THINNER AND MIXING CAN BE TRUBBLESOME.IT ALSO DEPENDS ON TIME.RIGHT NOW I AM USING ALL KRYLON ON MY LATEST PROJECT. I JUST PUT THREE COATS OF BLACK ON WITH SANDING IN BETWEEN EACH TODAY.IT IS VERY SHINY BUT A FEW MORE COATS AND IT WILL BE PERFECT.
I use my cordless electric drill. Put the nail point DOWN (just enough to hold it securely) into the chuck of the drill and tighten. Use decreasing grades of sand paper wrapped around the nail while you spin the drill. Start with like 150g then maybe 220g... working your way down to wet/dry sandpaper you get from an autoparts store (wet the strip of paper before use). You are then down to using Jeweler's Rouge (a fine abrasive powder) mixed into a paste with water and applied with a strip of cloth. In a pinch, you could try toothpaste (not the gel stuff) which usually has enough mild abrasive to serve as a polish. I prefer the rouge.
Make sure before you go to polish that you've taken a light file and removed the three burrs on the shaft and the 1 or 2 found under the head of the nail. I also use the pro-hub tool and pro-axle tool for the wheels and to make sure the wheelbase is accurate. Graphite-molybdenum lube is great, especially when polished into the wheel axle holes with a pipecleaner held in the chuck of my drill.
Hey, you guys do what you want... I've got 2 first place winners and a 2nd placer . the boys couldn't be happier.